'Bold colours with silver or grey hair can make a sensational combo'
Never done it, worn bright lipstick. Partly because I’ve always had a strong natural lip colour and partly because when I was younger I had red hair, and potential clashes put me off. But now I’ve hit 60, I’m indulging in some bucket-list beauty ideas, and since I’ve always admired bright lipstick on others, I felt it was time to pucker-up and take the plunge.
First, I got on the blower to make-up pro Ariane Poole, who I used to work with on beauty shoots back in the day. As she has launched her own pro-age cosmetics line, I wondered how she’d reply to the question ‘Can older women get away with bright lipstick?’.
Turns out it wasn’t just a ‘yes’ from Ariane. ‘In some cases, it’s positively a must,’ she said. This is because as we age, we not only lose colour in our hair but also pigment in our skin, which also gets thinner and so looks more translucent. ‘The beige, nudes and browns that may have looked fabulous in your 40s might make you appear tired and drawn,’ she explained.
Not that Ariane advocates us all switching to fluoro pinks or vivid reds, although bold colours with silver or grey hair can make a sensational combo. But simply injecting more oomph to your shade can give your face a lift. For example, if you used to always go nude, opt for a coral instead.
I also think a softer outline is more flattering than a really sharp edge, but you still need to use a lip pencil to prevent the colour from ‘bleeding’.
The first trick is to chose a relatively neutral shade that is more like your natural lip colour than an exact match for your chosen bright shade. Then, apply it after your lipstick, not before. The reason is that lipstick or gloss wears off faster than pencil, so if the pencil line lies underneath, when the lip colour vamooses, you’re left with that strange clown mouth. Applying it on top tends to even up the ‘wear-off’ rate. Studio 10 Age Reverse Perfecting Lipliner (£23) is a great universal shade to try.
Texture becomes a lot more crucial, too. I prefer something with a bit of moisturising slip. Ariane’s Sheer Gloss Vegan (£17) is glossy yet packs a pigment punch, especially in luscious Pomegranate; as does her Hydrating Lipstick Balm, £17, which feels featherlight on the lips (both products are vegan). Chanel’s Rouge Coco Bloom (£35, Selfridges) is another winner, with its two-phase action. First the colour sets on the lips, then the oil phase rises to the surface to boost brilliant shine.
As for shade choice, that’s over to you. You’re looking for one that brings your skin alive. Be warned: orangey shades can make teeth seem more yellow, in which case, go for cooler, blueish reds and pinks. And once you’re rocking it, don’t overdo your eyes – just keep them defined but undramatic.
Last but not least, you have to wear it, not let it wear you. I started subtle and upped the ante as I became more comfortable. Drum-roll moment… I went out wearing YSL’s Rouge Volupté Candy Glaze in Tangerine Tease (£32). I pitched my outfit somewhere between boho and smart, then I braved it. The colour lasted really well and, best of all, it made me feel less 60, more spirited. Result.
Read last week's column: Why you shouldn't be afraid to bare your arms in midlife
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